Which month to come to Kashmir
Every month in the valley gives you a different place. An honest month-by-month account of what you actually get, including the ones most people are told to avoid.
Read this →Guides
What we'd tell you on the phone
Things worth knowing before you come, written from here rather than assembled from somewhere else. No lists of the ten best anything.
Trout fishing in Kashmir, and how the permits actually work
The beats, the season, and the part nobody explains: Kashmir's trout water is licensed by the day and the good stretches are spoken for long before you arrive.
Read this →The Mughal gardens, in the right order and at the right hour
Four gardens, one road, and a crowd that arrives at a predictable time. How to see Shalimar, Nishat, Chashme Shahi and Pari Mahal without queueing for any of them.
Read this →Getting from Srinagar airport to Harwan
What the drive is actually like, how long it really takes at different hours, and the one thing worth arranging before you land.
Read this →Buying pashmina in Srinagar without being sold a blend
What real pashmina is, why most of what is sold as pashmina is not, and the two tests that are worth anything. Plus what else in the old city is worth carrying home.
Read this →Gulmarg: the gondola, the seasons, and whether to stay the night
A day trip for most people and an overnight for some. What Gulmarg is actually like in each season, how the gondola works, and when the second stage is worth queueing for.
Read this →What to pack for Kashmir, by month
The valley is colder than people expect in every season except two. A month-by-month packing list, including the things guests most often arrive without.
Read this →Ask us anything else
If you are planning a trip and something here does not answer it, write and ask. We would rather talk you out of the wrong week than have you arrive expecting a different valley.
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