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Upani Cottages

Experiences

Days in the valley

Harwan sits where the city gives way to the mountains — the Mughal gardens a few minutes one way, the Zabarwan trails rising the other. Everything here we can arrange for you; tell us what you'd like when you book.

01

Fishing

A day out, not a step from the lawn.

Kashmir's trout water is not the stretch behind the property — it is up the side valleys, and it is worth the drive. The Lidder above Pahalgam, the Sindh on the road to Sonamarg, and the spring-fed streams at Kokernag and Verinag are the waters people come for. The Fisheries Department licenses them by the beat and by the day, and the good beats are spoken for early, so this is one to tell us about when you book rather than on the morning. Give us your dates and we will sort the permit, the car and someone who knows the water; the season runs through the warmer months.

Thigh-deep in meltwater with a line out, and the long, unhurried silence before anything at all happens.
02

Trekking

Walks that start at the gate.

Harwan is where the Zabarwan trails begin. There are short walks up through the pines for an afternoon, and longer climbs toward Mahadev for anyone who wants the whole day and the view from the top. Dachigam, where the hangul deer live, is minutes away. We will put you with a guide who knows which route suits the weather and your legs.

High on the ridge, where the cloud comes level with you and the only sound left is your own breathing.
03

Sightseeing

The Mughal gardens are on the doorstep.

Shalimar Bagh is barely out of the lane — the garden Jahangir built for Nur Jahan, and best walked early, before the coaches arrive. Nishat follows the same road down the lake. Further round, Chashme Shahi and Pari Mahal sit up on the hillside with the whole Dal laid out below them, and Hazratbal's white dome is a short run along the far shore. Give the city a day of its own: Lal Chowk and the old quarter for pashmina, papier-mache and walnut wood, the Jamia Masjid, and a shikara out on the Dal at dusk. Gulmarg, Pahalgam and Sonamarg each make a full day; we will arrange the car and a driver who knows the roads.

Shalimar BaghThe largest of the Mughal gardens
5 min
Harwan GardenTerraced lawns above the reservoir
5 min
Dachigam National ParkThe hangul deer; entry by permit
10 min
Nishat BaghTwelve terraces down to the lake
10 min
Hazratbal ShrineOn the western shore of the Dal
15 min
Chashme ShahiThe spring garden, and the smallest
20 min
Pari MahalRuined terraces, the best view of the Dal
25 min
Shankaracharya TempleAbove the city, reached by steps
30 min
Lal Chowk & the old cityMarkets, crafts, the Jamia Masjid
30 min
The BoulevardWhere the shikaras go out
30 min

Approximate driving times from the property, traffic allowing.

04

Trails

The walk starts where the lane ends.

Behind the property the ground rises, and a footpath goes up through the trees onto the shoulder of the Zabarwan. It is a stony track rather than a made path, past a stream that comes down over rock, and it opens out onto terraced fields with the valley below and the mountains across it. An hour will do it at an easy pace; carry water and wear something with a grip. Go in the morning, when the light comes along the valley rather than straight down into it.

The beginning of the climb, one October morning — stone underfoot, water coming down over rock on your left, and the valley opening up ahead of you.
05

Camping

A night under the Zabarwan sky.

For guests who want a night out of doors, we can set up camp in the meadows above the property — tents, bedding, a fire and dinner carried up. It needs a day's notice and settled weather, and it is at its best from late spring through early autumn. Ask when you book and we will tell you honestly whether the season is with you.

The last of the climb, and a tent already standing in the meadow. Dinner is carried up; the stars arrive on their own.

We have written these up properly too — how trout permits actually work, and the gardens in the right order.

Questions

Before you come

What time can I check in and out?
Check-in is from 2:00 pm and check-out is by 12:00 noon. Earlier arrivals and later departures are usually possible — ask us and we'll tell you what the day looks like.
How many people can stay in a cottage or suite?
Two comfortably, and a third with an extra bed, which we can add to any cottage or suite. Tell us when you enquire so the room is made up before you arrive.
Are children welcome?
Yes. Children under six stay free, and under twelve are counted as children. The gardens are a good place for them, and we'll say honestly if a particular cottage suits a family better.
What is your cancellation policy?
Cancel more than 21 days before arrival and there is no charge. Within 21 days of arrival, the full value of the stay is retained.
Is breakfast included?
Rates can include breakfast, half board, or all meals — tell us which you'd prefer and we'll quote accordingly. The restaurant cooks to order rather than running a buffet, so dietary needs are straightforward if you mention them in advance.
Can you arrange an airport transfer?
Yes. Srinagar airport is about an hour away by road. Send us your flight and arrival time and we'll have a car waiting; transfers are charged separately. We have written up the drive in more detail in our guides.
Is there parking?
Yes, free parking on the property.
Is there WiFi?
High-speed WiFi throughout, included in every cottage and suite.
Do you allow pets?
Not at present.
Can I smoke?
In the designated outdoor area. The cottages and suites are non-smoking.
How do I pay?
Settle at the property on arrival, or ask us about paying in advance. Rates are quoted in rupees and exclude GST.
When is the best time to visit?
Each season gives you a different valley. Spring brings the blossom and the tulip garden, summer the gardens and the river at their best, autumn the chinars turning, and winter the snow with a fire lit. Tell us what you're hoping for and we'll tell you honestly whether your dates will give it to you.

Tell us what you'd like to do

Send us your dates and what you have in mind, and we'll put a few days together for you.

Enquire about a stay